Let’s Relax

I am a bad flyer. Period.

As much as my work takes me places and I practically live out of my suitcase, I am a terrible flyer and get pretty anxious with everything that has to do with flying. From long lines at check-in (I almost, always have big bags – that is another thing by the way, the fear of not having enough clean clothes to go through during my travel tenure), security, immigration (often times, international), the boarding, to the endless hours which range from 2 to 24 on board, the cycle continues on deplaning and so on. To top this all, I cannot sleep in-flight (I am yet to try the pill way, which is also another fear, I mean what if there is an emergency! Will someone wake me), am fidgety even though I am not 6’ tall and have a very low tolerance for unruly co-passengers (who I almost, always find beside me).

The couple of things I do find solace is in the in-flight entertainment (i usually land up watching kids animated films followed by sitcoms and for some reason there is always family guy), the F&B (international flights wines and spirits #FTW), latching on to the on-board wifi when I can get a chance (some flights have it as low as a $1) and hanging with the cabin crew on long hauls (sometimes, if not always, they find my interest in their on board offerings ever so entertaining).

I have found another easy way out when it comes to long haul flights. The lounges. Especially when it comes to completing one part of the leg on to another. The layovers can be excruciatingly boring. The ones which I travel frequently at least (I mean how much duty free browsing can one really do) and I am not particularly sociable to randomly start chatting with strangers (I envy the ones who can).

The lounges are a blessing around world airports. My biggest pet peeve is not being able to feel clean for extended periods of time. The airport / airplane lounges have these amazing equipped showers to take care of that issue. They provide everything from state-of-the-art private showers, toiletries and accessories to make yourself feel human again, post the vacuumed, dry aired cabin pressure fueled exhaustion.

I recently travelled the Los Angeles (LAX) sector vide Hong Kong (HKG) on the behest of a lot of advise from well wishers to go the other way). The kind folks at Cathay Pacific (which have four direct operations from Hong Kong to Los Angeles upgraded me as their guest to use their lounge. My flight CX660 from Mumbai landed in Hong Kong at 9:40am and with just a 3 hour layover, I made proper use of their lounge facilities and at one point wanted the onward flight to be slightly more delayed.

The Pier, Business at Hong Kong International airport is the most conveniently located lounge. It’s nearby the central part of the airport (Gate 65) which allows you to spend time at the space till the nth hour. Though I admit, on my way to LAX the gate changed from Gate 20 something to Gate 1 which rendered all my relaxation points to 0 as I was pretty laid back and did not leave the lounge till the nth hour, enough to make me break into a run and barely make it. Oftentimes the boarding gates for most outgoing international flights land up being around gate 65 which is convenient considering you can reach them in 5-10 minutes.

With Hong Kong being Cathay Pacific’s travel hub, the airport is home to their flagship lounges spread across the expanse of the airport. They can be found here.

I made a beeline for the showers the moment I entered and had a bit of a self imposed tier as they were located right at the very end of the elegantly designed spaces. Each section different from the other, yet similar. You enter first with the Deli-style Food Hall where tapas, cheese boards, pizzas and a host of international cuisines are laid out, followed by the Bar area (my favorite of course, picked up a Moet and made my way forward), the popular Noodle Bar with an open kitchen, to the quiet Tea House covered in green ceramic tiles that gives a distinct identity and a tea specialist behind the counter waiting to brew your choice of artisanal or seasonal teas (not to mention the petit fours and tea time snack to entice you just a little). The 14 Shower Suites and the final Relaxation Room greet you at the very end, enticing you to take a short nap.

Post a quick hot shower I got myself a Negroni (was almost worried it would be a rushed job, but they were good), parked myself in the relaxation room to unwind. I made a beeline for the noodle bar and got myself Hong Kong’s comfort food – a steaming hot bowl of Dan Dan Noodles along with a local beer to refresh the palate.

Dan Dan Noodles or Dandanmian originates from Chinese Sichuan cuisine. I often tried the American version which is sweeter (they replace the tahini with peanut butter, trust me its good), less spicy (of course!) and slightly drier than its Sichuan counterpart. The noodles gets its name from ancient time street vendors who would carry a basket of noodles and a basket of sauce on either ends of a pole which was harnessed over their shoulders. Super low-cost, affordable by one and all and extremely satiating and nutritious.

Traditionally in Shanghai (as also Hong Kong where it is super popular, especially amongst tourists who think it originated in Hong Kong) the recipe comprises of a soupy, spicy sauce in which fermented vegetables, greens like mustard stems and pakchoi, minced pork (this is where the smoky, sweet, meaty flavour is infused), and scallions are served over flattish noodles. Condiments such as tahini, soy, garlic, peanuts and chili oil (sichuan peppercorns too) are laid out for your preferred additions.

I had one of the most comforting Dan Dan Noodles at The Pier, Business with several helpings of Chinese buns (filled with pork and one with scallions) to mop up the extra soupy sauce. I was so enamored by this dish that I had to recreate it in my home city. I tried the original Sichuan version as my dear friend Bhakti Mehta who runs Little Food Co. (a catering and daily food service) had given me a large bag of Sichuan peppercorns from Hong Kong on a previous travel. She prides in cooking up asian fare with as much authenticity as you can get in this country.

I have worked on the recipe to include as many Indian or in-house condiments I could conjure up on my own. It turned out pretty close to the one I had if not the actual. It is a bit of a process but I would make use of the condiments again at a different time with different dishes when cooking up asian food. I would advise you to source a dried berry (peppercorn) called Tirphal easily available in most coastal towns of India or specialty stores in your home city. They are our desi sichuan peppercorns (the uniqueness of this peppercorn lies in the fact that it can numb your tongue and give this buzzing heat which is neither too hot nor too mild). While I have mentioned the sichuan peppercorns in my recipe below, feel free to replace it with Tirphal in yours (Unless you land up going to Hong Kong).

Traditionally Dan Dan Noodles make use of a umami fueled ingredient called Sui Mi Ya Cai. It is a rare processed ingredient which is made by fermenting mustard greens native to Sichuan province, dried and flavored with sugar and spices. I made do without this but you can add it if you find the same. Somehow I have come across packets of this in US asian markets more than I have in Asian stores in Asian countries.

Dan Dan Noodles

Ingredients

• 300 gms Flat Rice Noodles / Udon / Egg Noodles
• 150 gms Ground Pork OR Tofu Cubes
• 25 gms Fresh Ginger, peeled and chopped
• 2 tabs Cooking oil + 1 tabs Sesame Oil
• Salt, Pepper & Sugar to taste
• 150 gms Pak Choi
• 1.5 cups Chicken or Vegetable Stock (you may use a cube but that is last resort)

Condiments

• 2 tabs Tahini
• 1 tabs Pickled Mustard Greens (optional)
• 2 tabs Rice Wine Vinegar / Black Chinese Vinegar
• 2 tabs Soy Sauce (Light) + Extra Soy for the
• 1.5 tsp Sichuan Peppercorn Oil (recipe in method)
• Crushed Roasted Peanuts for topping
• Finely chopped Scallions / Green Onions for topping
• Finely Chopped and Fried Garlic for topping

Method

• While the process sounds lengthy, the condiments are the main ingredients and can be adjusted to your preferences. I have made it quite balanced with my method and the key is in the Sichuan peppercorn oil (since this adds the numbing spice to the Dan Dan experience).
• Start by preparing / boiling the noodles depending on which ones you using. Rice Noodles usually just need a soak but Udon and Egg can be boiled in salted water, drained and kept aside.
• To make the Sichuan oil, mildly crush the peppercorns with a pestle. Heat oil in a thick bottomed vessel (vegetable oil or a neutral one works best) and pour over the peppercorns. Let sit, no need to strain.
• In a wok, start by heating the oils, throw in the pork or tofu and stir fry on high heat. Add ginger, seasonings (sugar, salt, pepper) and quite immediately the mustard greens, vinegar, soy and Sichuan oil. It will start to thicken and boil. Add in the stock and tahini and it will turn into a curry like sauce. Season and set aside.
• To serve, add the noodles in the broth and heat throughly. Add the pak choi pretty much towards the end to just cook them lightly (you want that beautiful green color to be retained). Divide into bowls and serve with peanuts, scallions, garlic, extra Sichuan oil and soy on the side.

Here is a little video of the entire trip in one fun highlight. From the in-flight experience to the lounges, the LA story, my favourite city currently (and hope to get there by Christmas this year) along with some food and beverages I remember enjoying.

This lounge experience was sponsored by Cathay Pacific Airlines, while I had the upgrade voucher handed to me at the counter, the experience at the lounge on the way to LAX was pretty much on my own. On my way back to India I did get a tour and handholding by the lounge team. Both times the level of hospitality and the offerings were similar and I was privy to what any flyer would if he were to visit the lounges.